Visitors to Sukur are warned
not to approach a certain ancient baobab tree because,
villagers say, it turns people into
hermaphrodites.

It is an atmospheric introduction to this Nigerian World Heritage Site for the trickle of outsiders who come, but villagers who trek up and down from the remote hillside community are ready for

an injection of modernity. A road would be a start.
As the outside world starts to take a greater interest in the hilltop outpost, which earned its World Heritage label